Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
